Today I tested the changed reedblock's, must say I had hoped it would bring more but it seems that this is about it.
Its more in the 0,1's then in the 1's HP
Have done a lot off runs, so displayed only the second runs from the reedblock's this gives a relative steady measurement.
As if you compare the first run with the last run the heating off the exhaust changes the curve quit a bid.
Here a run with stock reedblock, as expected same runs as tested with the lifted Y-2 cylinder. (because nothing is changed yet)
26,3HP at 11085rpm
Here a run with widened stock reedblock
26,3HP at 11063rpm
Here a run with removed bridges reedblock
26,2HP at 11152rpm
Here the stock reedblock, vs widened reedblock, vs removed bridge reedblock
Stock makes more revs, the widened and removed bridges are close to each other but they give a bid more in the mid section vs the stock
Because the results where not what I hoped fore, started playing wit a 5mm spacer
Here a run with the stock reedblock and 5mm spacer
26,3HP st 11155rpm
Here a run with widened stock reedblock and 5mm spacer
giving a 26,7HP at 11130rpm
Not really the power I had hoped for, but can't make it different either.
This is about it.
When dynoing the stock reedblock with or without 5mm spacer many times the engine holds back at Max rpm.
Here you see most runs have a blip at the end with a stock reedblock
This is around 11,750rpm dyno, and 12.500rpm on tacho
Here you have some runs with the widened reedblock all runs nice and tight without the blip
First thoughts where perhaps a rpm limiter, ore ignition problem.
But now I'm starting to think that the reed petals are creating a pulse/wave the engine does not like.
Because I did not have this problem with the widened reedblock that has stiffer petals, I'm guessing the softer petals are at there limit in that rpm range.
A small notice, one big reed petal wont survive long on a reedblock with removed bridges.
The petal needs the support. This is the results of 10 runs, already start to break (both sides)